News from Addis Ababa

Many thanks to AddisAdvisor for the following updates to the 7th edition:

Addis Light Rail

Both the East-West and North-South lines are now open. The two lines can be distinguished by colour: trains on the North-South line are Blue and White, while those on the East-West line are Green and White.

This East-West line goes from Ayat 15km out in the far eastern suburbs of the city, via Megananya, Haile Gebre Sellassie Avenue, Meskel Sq ,Lagare, Mexico Sq, to Tor Hiloch 5km west of city centre. See maps in new Bradt Guide p 158 159 or
138/9 where the railways are marked in a darker shade with dots in the
middle (but part is missing in square 5B). The East-West line passes many hotels, see 158 /9…..

Some of the station names are not as in the book. This is because station names were not all decided/published when the Bradt maps were finalised… and more stations were built than on the original planners map.

For example 158 2C station is not called Kasa South but Bambis Supermarket….

Tickets are bought outside each station from new orange coloured mini
shop nearby. You state your destination and get a single ticket at 2,
4, or 6 birr according to distance you are going.

The plan is for trains to run every 6 minutes but at the moment not all trains are built or running so you may have to wait up to 20 minutes.


The Mexican Family Restaurant, listed on p164, has closed. But the Claypot, listed on p165, has now relocated from Gerji to the premises formerly occupied by the Mexican Family Restaurant i.e. between Bambis and Olympia underpass, as shown on the map on p155, grid G8 labelled 29.

New hotels

Addis Ababa seems to gain a new hotel pretty well every month.

Here are 2 newish ones both at Atlas junction close to the budget Mr Martins (p159 4E in new Bradt guide maps).

Hometown Addis Hotel, small boutique hotel, 25 very nice rooms. Prices
start at $40. Close to restaurants and minibus route to Urael , Kasainches towards
city centre, or to Edna Mall area. or 00251

Washington Hotel. More upmarket $95 upwards. Tour company owners tell
me the standards are high. Info

April 2015 Trip Report

Natalia writes:

Addis Ababa: Biruk Bed and Breakfast was excellent. Much better than expected, excellent owners and comfortable room.

Correction to the Bradt guide: if looking for Linda’s restaurant at the Juventus Club, it is important to go up the RIGHT hand steps on Meskel Square’s terrace (facing the terrace), NOT the left hand steps. We wandered for ages!

By road from Addis to Hossana via the Butajira road: beautiful, but a good 5 hours in private car because of the traffic in southeastern Addis. Lovely area.

Public bus ran from Hosaina to Awassa via Alaba Kulito, left when full around 9ish, 5 hours on a very pretty road through Angecha.

Hawassa: Lakeview Hotel is a new hotel that was fantastic value. Located next to the Oasis hotel, on the road to the Lewi. Very smart, new rooms (great beds, best bathroom in ET, fridge, spotty Wifi, balconies onto lake) start at US$22.

Yirga Alem: Excellent splashout with a stay at Aregash Lodge. This is a very special place, and while not cheap ($US70 for 1 person, $US80 for two, buffet meals perhaps 230 birr), it delivered on the value with very spacious, well appointed rooms, excellent bathrooms, extremely good service, and high quality food. I’ve been in lots of overhyped “ecolodges,” and this one truly delivered. Took the minibus from the bus station in Awassa to Yirgalem, and it’s easy to get a bajaj there up to the lodge or call the lodge. Bajaj may not be able to do the last 500m. Pretty isolated spot.

Skybus from Awassa to Addis was easy and smooth, if grubby. Booked one day ahead, 167 birr, booking in Awassa at the Alliance Building opposite Time Cafe. Seat maps bore no resemblance to actual bus, but at least there was just one seat per person. They gave out water on the bus, one bathroom stop in the bush. Departed Awassa about 6:40 am, were in Meskel Square by 12:15 pm.

Public transport in Addis Ababa

Addis Advisor writes:

Addis MINIBUS TAXIS, price drop, location changes.


Due to world oil thing prices have been cut thus….these are for trips of different length starting with shortest

SHORT 1.50 birr down to 1.25…………In Amharic………and birr k haya amist

MEDIUM 3.00 birr down to 2.50 eg Arat Kilo to Megananya..

LONG 4-00 birr down to ???? not sure if 3.50 or 3,25………eg Bole to Piazza,

Stadium to Kaliti Bus Station 12 km out to southern outskirts of Addis is still 10 birr…(for those busing south)

2. As the Addis Light Rail system nears completion many minibus starting points are back to normal… as in Bradt Guide 6th edition maps. BUT many also still different……..especially on eastern section of the Metro Rail between Maskal Square and Megananya…..which has many hotels…. LOCALS will always be most helpful in telling you where a particular route currently starts.

3. For those aiming to save money by using minibuses…….see relevant page on how to use Addis minibus taxis in Bradt (6th edition only).

Addis Light Rail network will open later this year……..

Important news from Bahir Dar

Two brief but important updates from Bahir Dar:

The first is that the venerable Ghion Hotel, for years the most popular backpacker hangout in town, has been forced to closed its doors. The story, so far as we can ascertain, is that the government (which still owns the property) has kicked out the current lessor and will put the hotel out to tender soon. Assuming it does reopen at some point, it’s anybody’s guess whether the rather tired-looking rooms will be renovated, and what they will cost.

The second is that the weekly ferry to Gorogora has changed its schedule. It now leaves from the marine authority jetty in Bahir Dar at around 06.00 every Monday, usually arriving at Gorgora between 16.00 and 18.00 on Tuesday. It then starts the return trip at 06.00 on Thursday, arriving in Bahir Dar on Friday afternoon.

Detailed trip report Jul-Sep 2014

Charlotte writes:

I was in Ethiopia for 2 and a half months for research from mid July 2014 – end September 2014, but also did some travelling. I did a lot in public transport, for which information is sometimes scarce so I have added some info here, though it is usually quite easy to get information by asking around a bit. Note that the prices that I have put here is what I was charged in Summer 2014, however prices are variable depending e.g. on market days, type of bus taken for transport, prices also vary for peak/off peak seasons, e.g. for hotels , I was there in the off-season.



Sky bus

Their office on Meskel square in Addis does exist but is hard to find, and we found the man bad tempered and unhelpful…maybe it just wasn’t his day…and told us that there were no tickets left on the bus, however we went to the office at Itegue Taitu hotel in Piassa and the lady was very helpful and got us tickets for the bus we wanted.

Took Skybus from Addis – Hawassa and back, a good bus service that leaves on time and is a good price, though there is constantly noise from film/music/standup comedy that they play for the whole bus, so earplugs are worthwhile if you want some quiet. For toilet breaks, the bus just stops on the side of the road somewhere quiet. Also receive a small snack & drink.

They are also very flexible, we had almost illegible tickets (through water destruction) for a Friday, we had tried changing the date, however no-one was around in the Hawasa office and on the phone they just told us to turn up at the busstop at 6am on the Sunday, the day we wanted to leave. After we explained the situation, they accepted our ruined tickets for the wrong day and allowed us to travel! Great!


Selam bus

I took it from Bahir Dar – Addis, same comments as Sky bus.



Generally speaking, if you are careful, there should not be a problem, but there are the odd people that will try to take things from you. In 10 weeks, only 2 attempts were made to take my things (luckily both failed!). In Addis a group of boys distracted me on one side while one of them puts their hands into your pockets on the other side. Even so I continued to keep e.g. phone in my pocket throughout my travels, but I was careful. In minibuses & public transport, if you have bags with you, keep an eye on them (or if you travel with big bags/rucksacks, just avoid keeping important things in them, or if you must, then put them in the least accessible places). I had a small rucksack that I had put by my feet in a minibus, and later caught a man’s hand in it! Luckily I had tied up the inside opening well and he couldn’t access anything, but it is better to keep smaller bags on your lap.

Another friend had his phone stolen by a group of men in a bajaj, clearly they were working together with the driver. He only realised after.



– Tea and coffee in local places almost always comes automatically with sugar already in the drink, although some places more used to foreigners will put sugar aside.

– In hotels, if you like hot showers, one of the 1st things you should do is turn the boiler on as it often takes some time for the water to heat up.

– Cappuccinos don’t have coffee – it is hot milk with a little cocoa powder




I enjoyed Hawassa, it is a nice, clean town, and the lake is beautiful.

Paradise hotel – Great location near to the minibus station, good for early starts. It is a nice place but the bar next door is very (very) loud, but otherwise is good value for money


Hawassa to Shashemene and back

10 birr, 20-30min

NOTE – in Shashemene there are 2 bus stations. The minibus from Hawassa goes to the Old bus station




The rainy season is not the best time to go – we were there in mid-August & it rained every afternoon.


Shashemene to Dinsho/Robe and back

100 birr in minibus – if you go to Dinsho, you still must pay the price for Robe. It takes 2h30 from Shashamane – Dinsho.

The buses between Shashamane and Robe arrive and leave from the New bus station.



This is where the Bale Park forest office is, and also where you can get guides. It is at the end of the town (Robe side). It is possible to stay in the Dinsho lodge, but we did not do this as we had heard that it wasn’t great and that it was expensive. From the outside it looks okay so maybe things have changed.

Tuesday is a market day


Dinsho – Robe

11 birr in minibus, 20-30min (15 birr on market day)



We decided to stay in Robe instead of Dinsho as a point de depart for the Bale Mountains.

Public transport between Dinsho & Robe is easy, although we once had difficulty getting a minibus back to Robe at 4pm, although that may be due to the market that there was in Dinsho. It can sometimes be easier picking up a minibus on the side of the road instead of from the bus station in Dinsho.

Thursday is a market day in Robe.

– Abdama hotel – 300/night for 2 single beds (they call it a double). It is fairly clean & comfortable, but shower isn’t great (there is hot water, but not much water comes out of showerhead at a time) & they don’t give much toilet paper. Note: They lock the gate so if you must leave before 7am someone must come and open for you. Good location near the bus station.

– Hanni café is nice, as is the Harar bar and restaurant opposite which seems popular for tibs BUT be careful in Robe asking for tibs, as you may be presented instead with a plate of chips!


Sanetti plateau

The park management advise against using public transport for the Sanetti plateau, and from experience, I will agree with them, unless you have time or plan it well! Getting there was easy however returning was a problem.

From Robe you must go to Goba (5 birr, minibus, 15 min). Sometimes there can be very long queues so if you are continuing to Sanetti, then it is best to leave early (I would suggest about 7am, as we were there at 9am it was far too late).

From Goba, take a bus direction Dolo Mena, and get off at Sanetti campsite (your guide will know it; 60 birr in a public bus, about 1.5hrs; we had 50birr for luggage). It is standard to pay the price of the whole trip to Dolo Mena. Try to leave as early as possible, it took a long time for our bus to fill up, but I don’t think it was the 1st bus that left.

For the return from Sanetti to Robe/Goba – you must wait on the side of the road and wait for a passing bus/truck/car that is willing to take you. We waited all afternoon once and had nothing, and were forced to spend an extra night on the plateau. The afternoon is a bad time for getting transport here although you may get lucky. It is easier to get transport in the morning, we ended up getting picked up by a truck (we were 3 people, 2 travellers and 1 guide).




Diana hotel – Near the Commercial Bank of Ethiopia. Decent place, but price variable (100birr for a man & woman to share, 150birr for two of the same sex to share). The shower & toilet are shared, but are clean enough.The manager Tesfay is friendly and helpful and can help you out with problems.

Merkeb hotel – We paid 130birr (although according to another couple we met, they paid 100….maybe it was because we were 2 females).Cleanish but I prefered the Diana hotel, which is better for a very similar price, however you can’t beat Merkeb’s location next to the bus station (for southerly destinations), and close to Selam bus stop, particularly useful for early travellers.


Mekele to Hawzen & back (via Wukro)


Take bajaj in Mekele to the Lachi bus station & can get a minibus from there

To return: it is difficult to get a minibus back after 3pm



Good base for visiting rock hewn churches (of which Abuna Yemata & Debre Maryam Korkor are definately worth visiting, particularly if you also enjoy hiking a bit, the views are wonderful!). It is also possible to arrange longer hiking trips over several days (or even weeks I think) to less accessible churches.

Gheralta lodge – it is by far the nicest place to stay, and worth it (1300birr/ night for a room with 3 single beds, private bathroom, and includes a great breakfast)

Vision hotel – Recently opened (end of August 2014) and is nice and clean, the manager is friendly and speaks good English. No running water, but this was a problem in the whole village at that particular moment (130birr / room/ night with private bathroom). I am sceptical about how long the hotel will stay in good condition as some material in the bathroom seems a little flimsy.


Mekele – Woldia (Weldiya)

I ended up having to take several minibuses to get here, although I think it is possible to get bigger buses directly if you arrive in time at the bus station (big bus leaves at 6am)

Mekele – Mohia: 45birr, about 2hrs

Mohia – Alamata: 20birr, about 1hr

Alamata – Woldia: about30birr, about 2hrs

Woldia is quite a nice but plain small town – I enjoyed climbing one of the hills for a very nice view of the town, although I would have preferred to have headed straight onto Lalibela (unfortunately I missed the last buses)

Jordanos hotel – Clean, nice. Didn’t have hot water but think I was just unlucky with a broken boiler.


Woldia – Lalibela and Lalibela – Bahir Dar

Woldia – Gashena then Gashena – Lalibela


Buses between these destinations tend to overcharge farenji. On my return trip Gashena – Lalibela I was asked to pay 70 birr, the locals paid 40. On my trip from Gashena to Bahir Dar, I was asked to pay 200birr, negotiated this to 150 birr, however the locals only paid 80birr.


Bahir Dar & the Blue Nile Falls

I had heard that a lot of people were disappointed with the Blue Nile Falls because of lack of water (due to a hydropower plant) however I went in mid September at the end of the rainy season and thought that they were really superb.



Minibuses around Addis

Prices are more expensive later at night. It is difficult to get the minibuses after 9.30pm. They don’t tend to overcharge farenji. For some idea of prices:


Stadium – Haya Hulet: 4 birr

Haya Hulet – Arat Kilo: 4 birr

Stadium – Global (Kira direction): 6 birr

Arat Kilo – Bole: 3 birr

Arat Kilo – Shiro Meda: 3 birr

Arat Kilo – Piazza: 1.5 birr

Arat Kilo – Meganegna: 3 birr

Arat Kilo – Stadium: 3 birr

Stadium – Kaliti bus station: 10 birr




Many people like this place, I did not. I found the lakes very dirty, with lots of rubbish, except if you are in a lodge or restaurant on the side of the lake, and my travel partner and I got harassed quite a bit.

Kaliti bus station to Bishoftu: 12-15 birr


Public transport

– Try to leave in the morning. Often I found buses would leave at 6am, and you would have to arrive earlier to take tickets.

– Make sure you aren’t in a hurry, the buses can sometimes take quite some time to fill up (Often they fill up fairly quickly, but it isn’t always the case)

– Often they will charge you more for luggage (but not always)







MIkael Imba (Tigrai), Gashena & Domestic flights

Sander writes:
The ‘Gashena ticket scam’ (p. 313) is still very much alive. We encountered almost exactly the same thing (unfortunately, we only read about it afterwards). A guy ripped us off for 400 Birr. Also, we found it extremely difficult to find transport in and out of lalibela. We came from Dessie/Woldia and upon our arrival in Gashena, we could hardly find a bus to lalibela (and once we did, we had to pay 400 Birr, whereas the normal price should be 100 for two persons). Also getting out of Lalibela was very difficult: we arrived at the bus station at 5.30 a.m. (advised by our hotel); there were four buses there (already fully packed) which all left without us (after having asked us two or three times the regular price). We ended up hitchhiking with a truck, paying way too much. Then we were stranded in Gashena again, where we had to wait almost 5 hours for a minibus to Bahir Dar, that also overcharged us at least 2 or 3 times. Finally we paid almost 1200 Birr for coming to lalibela from Addis and 1000 for getting from Lalibela to Bahir Dar. Maybe this is worth mentioning (it was by far our most difficult trip, which we did not expect, considering Lalibela is Ethiopia’s most touristic destination).
We went to the rock hewn churches in Tigrai. Considering the Mikael Imba church (p. 293-94), you already mentioned that the ‘treasurer’ was ‘neither co-operative nor friendly’. Well, things did not improve lately, to say the least. We had a really bad experience there. We were travelling with a Belgian couple. They decided to not enter the church, but my brother and I wanted to. The priest/treasurer however already wrote a ticket for 4 persons, which is 600 Birr nowadays (we tried to tell him that there would only be two people), and refused to change it. Eventually he got so upset that he refused to let anybody in. Things got out of hand (the guy started shouting at us and went up to our driver) and eventually he threatened to throw a big rock at the front window of our car (we were about to leave). We were quite upset and half the village was there to look at us. Finally we decided to pay him the 300 Birr (the fee for 2 persons) even though none of us had seen the church. We felt that paying was the only option of getting out of there without damage to our car. The treasurer/priest claimed that he would otherwise get into trouble because of the ticket he wrote. We didn’t understand exactly what he meant, but we even offered him to leave a note with our passport numbers and autograph, stating that we did not pay any money to him. Afterwards, we informed the police about the incident in the next village and they told us they would look into it. It is perhaps better to avoid this church all together, because the guy went completely mental.
About the Ethiopian Airlines ticket prices: prices for domestic flights are now MUCH lower if you fly with Ethiopian Airlines TO Ethiopia. For example, flying from Bahir Dar to Addis would be around 150 dollars (regular price). However if you have an international ticket through Ethiopian, it would cost you only 50 dollars. Many people we met did not know about this, as the ruling only came into being earlier this year. We flew with Turkish airlines, so no discount for us making it too expensive now for us to fly domestically.