Detailed July/August 2016 trip report

Greg writes:

Chapter 3 – Practical Information

In the section “red tape” I suggest specifying that Visas on Arrival are not issued at Dire Dawa airport, notwithstanding daily flights from Djibouti. Tourists arriving from Djibouti must either obtain their visa in advance from the Ethiopian embassy in Djibouti city or fly directly to Bole airport.

In the section “getting around”, I found your characterization of the Ethiopian Airlines travel experience to be accurate. However, in booking several flights with Ethiopian during the course of my stay I found considerable disparities in the application of policies, procedures and pricing – as well as general helpfulness – depending on who I was dealing with (i.e. Ethiopian Airlines call centre, Airline ticket offices in various cities and independent travel agencies). I also found considerable variability in security measures at various airports, with Axum having by far the most stringent checks, related presumably to the widespread peddling of ancient Axumite coins in this region.

Chapter 5 – Addis Ababa

In the section “Getting there and away“, I think you understate the number of international flights at terminal 1. As far as I can make out most if not all destinations in the Gulf are served by terminal 1, and by extension any other destinations involving a Gulf-based airline (e.g. Qatar). We personally found this to be problematic as we travelled to Ethiopia from Canada on Qatar, and our hotel shuttle driver was waiting for us at terminal 2 based on the assumption that this would be where he could find us.

While I generally found your review of Zeist Lodge (page 151) to be accurate, your characterization of its breakfast as one of the best in the country is overstated in my opinion. While admittedly I only stayed there one night, I found the breakfast to be middling in terms of quality and the staff stingy with refills and extras (e.g. jam or butter for the toast provided).

On your map of the city centre and Piazza on pages 154-55, please note that the Ethiopian Airline office in Piazza has moved from the location on Cunningham Street indicated on the map to Churchill Avenue at Wawel (i.e. in the Eliana Hotel complex) at the south-west corner of the intersection. Also, I suggest you consider adding a review of Eliana Hotel in your guide; I stayed in this relatively new hotel two nights in July 2016 and I was impressed with the quality of the rooms, the good breakfast and friendly service.

On your map of Bole on pages 158-59, I suggest you add a reference to the post office located on Olympia Circle, between Africa Avenue and Gabon Street. Also, the location indicated on the map for the Jewel of India Restaurant appears wrong. It is not on Gabon Street but rather a street which runs parallel to it.

Under Art Galleries and Installations on page 168, Netsa Art Village no longer exists. I spoke with the coordinator in August 2016 and I was told that it closed down about a year ago after the park authorities indicated that they did not wish to renew the Art Village’s lease.

In your description of Piazza on page 174, you may wish to add a similar warning to the one you indicate for Merkato with respect to pickpocketing. My wife and I were targeted four to five times in the area over a span of just two days. Although none of the attempts was successful, it would certainly be advisable for visitors to stay alert at all times.

I would suggest you add Downtown Café and Restaurant to your Piazza-area restaurant listings (pages 161-162). It is located on the east side of Churchill Avenue just north of Eliana Hotel and it is very good. Popular with young Ethiopians and stylishly appointed, it serves both Ethiopian and Italian dishes, along with excellent fruit juice. A mushroom pizza costs 99 birr; fresh juice 26 birr.

Chapter 6 – Around Addis Ababa

Under your entry for the Kuriftu Resort on page 185, please note that “facials” are not offered in the spa, only manicures and massages.

Under your description of Adadi Maryam (page 197), the entry fee is now USD5 (100 birr), up from the US3 indicated in the guide. Also, there is a typo on the 3rd line of the final paragraph on page 197: “excavation” should be replaced with “expedition”.

As for the Tiya stelae field, the entry is now USD6.50 (130 birr) rather than USD6 indicated.

Chapter 7 – Western Amhara

In your introduction to Bahir Dar (page 227), you suggest that hassle has lessened in recent years. While I do know how bad it was in the past, the degree of hassle here was the greatest of any town or city I visited in Ethiopia. While one of our most unpleasant experiences was at the bus station – where an aggressive gang of touts was very unpleasant to deal with in their attempts to get us on “their” minibus to Gonder (and we heard from another couple who had a similar experience), we found there was generally a high degree of street harassment (e.g. aggressive begging, pushing tours, etc), particularly in the evening near the lake and in downtown.

With respect to the information provided on the Blue Nile Falls (page 238-239), we were charged an admission fee of USD5 (100 birr) per person, not USD2.50 as you indicate. With respect to guides, we found there was considerable pressure at the ticket office and at the trailhead to take one, but once we had run this gauntlet the hassles on the trail itself were low-key and unobtrusive (i.e. young children selling curios, people wanting to hold an umbrella for you, etc). Visiting in late July the Falls were very impressive, although the path was quite muddy and slippery. I would also note that the road is currently being upgraded, and consequently it is a long, bumpy trip from Bahir Dar at present.

With respect to Gondar hotels (page 262), we stayed several nights at the Taye Belay and I was impressed by the helpfulness and flexibility of the staff. I would highly recommend this hotel on this basis alone, notwithstanding the rather crummy breakfast on offer. I was less impressed with the Lodge de Chateau. We looked into staying here based on positive reviews from another tourist, but I was not impressive by the manager’s lack of flexibility regarding low season pricing and the rooms seemed dark and poorly appointed, certainly much worse value for money than the Taye Belay, where we were paying under USD50 for three people in a top notch room.

With respect to Gondar restaurants (page 263-264) your review of Four Sisters is right on the mark. However, I was very disappointed with Habesha Coffee. In addition to unfriendly staff, we wait ages for the fruit juices we ordered, they got the order wrong and it seemed as though they had failed to clean the blender as there was a strong taste of banana in what was supposed to be mango juice.

In your map of Gondar (page 261), the placement of Ras Gimb appears wrong. You may want to double check, but I believe it should be placed further to the North, i.e. close to the Oil Libya gas station.

With respect to Fasil Ghebbi (page 266), while the admission fee remains USD10, the woman working in the ticket office was the most blatantly corrupt ticket seller of any museum or historic site we encountered during our trip. Not only was it very difficult to get her to produce a receipt but she also attempted to short-change as well.

With respect to Kuskuam, which we were very impressed with, I would simply note that the cost of a bajaj was about USD3 from the city centre.

Chapter 8 – Eastern Amhara

Under “tourist information” for Lalibela on page 323, it appears that the tourism office is no longer at the location indicated. I was told it is located within the church ticket office.

With respect to Lalibela restaurants (page 327) please note that the Holy Land Restaurant has closed. A seemingly new and very nicely appointed restaurant/cafe is the XO, located in the Lalibela cultural centre. They serve Ethiopian and western food as well as a good selection of drinks.

In your description of Bet Gebriel-Rafael, please note that the “rickety wooden walkway” has been replaced by a solid concrete bridge.

Chapter 9 – Tigrai

Under Axum’s “getting there and away” section on page 345, you may wish to mention that the security checks at the airport are by far the most stringent we experienced anywhere in the country – including international departures from Bole airport in Addis. It appears the focus is on searching travellers for Axumite coins and other antiquities.

While there is a fine-looking tourism office near the big fig tree/piazza, it was locked up throughout our stay in Axum.

 

Under Axum hotels (page 347), the phone number for Yeha Hotel is wrong. The correct number is 0347-752377. We stayed at Yeha Hotel for two nights and I agree with your assessment: beautiful grounds and setting overlooking the town, but both the rooms and the hotel generally are in need of refurbishment, plus the television in our room wasn’t working, breakfast was very poor and staff came across as entirely unhelpful and clueless. On the positive side, the restaurant terrace is very pleasant and we enjoyed watching the monkeys cavorting in nearb trees and bushes.

In your map of Axum (page 348) I noted two errors in your map. Ethiopian Airlines is no longer at the location indicated near Sol Internet. It has now moved several blocks to the east on the north side of the street near the Ark Hotel. Also, B-Life Nightclub is at the east end rather than the west end of the block, i.e. diagonally across the intersection from Atse Kaleb.

Under “other practicalities” in Axum on page 350 you may wish to add a reference a laundry. Located on a side-street south-west of the Dashen bank, its phone number is 0922-163539/0914-492931

Chapter 11 – Harar and the Far East

Under Dire Dawa hotels, we stayed at the Samrat and we were quite disappointed. Even taking into account the lower standards that one comes to expect in Ethiopian hotels, the Samrat was truly dire. In addition to exceedingly unfriendly and unhelpful staff, the breakfast was awful (everything was cold and barely edible), the pool was closed and our room was barely acceptable. The only positive was the Bollywood Restauran, which was quite good.

On your map of Dire Dawa on page 437 you show a bridge crossing the Dechatu river near the Coca-Cola bottling plant. This bridge does not in fact exist.

Under “what to see and do” in Dire Dawa on page 439, I visited what you describe as the site of the “new railway museum currently being established” and was told by the coordinator that its establishment is now doubtful due to the loss of government support for the venture. That being said, entering the gate to the south-west of the old train station you will find a train wagon set up for the train yards’ official tour guide, a long-time railway employee who speaks good English and French. She offers extensive tours of the site, including visits to the old roundhouse, workshops, etc. There is no set admission fee but a tip is expected.

Under “where to eat and drink” in Harar on page 449, I find you are overly positive about Hirut Restaurant. While the setting is certainly nice, the food is on par with other options (e.g. Fresh Touch) and we found the service to be poor, and it didn’t help that the waitress disappeared when it was time to bring us the change from our bill.

Under “other practicalities” in Harar on page 449, you may wish to consider adding what I believe may be the town’s only travel agent, which sells Ethiopian Airline tickets, etc. It is called Sofi Travel Service (tel 0911-029602 / 0256-664422) and it is located on the south side of the main street between the Ras Hotel and Cozi Pizzeria. I bought airline tickets from Dire Dawa to Addis here, and the woman running the agency was quite helpful.

Under the “hyena men of Harar” (page 453), it may be worth pointing out that at least one imitator has sprung up beyond the two hyena men based at the traditional feeding sites near Felana and Erer gates respectively. On our first evening in Harar we made our own way to the “Christian” feeding site, but arriving at about 6:30pm there was no one about and we left just before 7pm. Finding out later that that the feeding does not actually start until after 7pm (i.e. nightfall) the next day we opted to make arrangements with a bajaj driver to take us to one of the sites. After leaving the old city through the Erer gate he took us to a rural spot about 1km south-east of the “Islamic” feeding site where a man who claimed to be the son of the original hyena man was charging 100 birr per person, which we negotiated down to 250 birr for three people. Two other parties of tourists later showed up with their guides in tow. While I expect the experience was not dissimilar to what we would have had at one of the traditional sites (i.e. about 6-8 hyenas came around and tourists who wanted to feed a hyena with meat on a stick could do so), I was initially quite concerned that we were being scammed.

Under your entry for the Rimbaud museum, you indicate the entry fee as USD1. The entry fee seems to have risen to USD2.

I found your overview of Babile Elephant Sanctuary (page 457-458) to be very helpful. However, you may wish to consider adding the following details. Given that spotting any elephants generally requires hiking through the bush, it is important for visitors to come appropriate dressed (i.e. thick trousers and closed shoes), given the large number of cacti and other thorn-bearing plants about. Also, I was surprised by the extent of human encroachment on the Sanctuary, with quite a few people and many camels and cows grazing, which apparently has served to push the elephants into more remote areas. Notwithstanding the timing of our visit in early August it took us 3-4 hours of searching before we came upon a group of three elephants. In addition to the cost of the car, driver and guide – which in our case cost us 3,000 birr, we also had to pay an entry fee to the park (100 birr per person) and 200 birr for the scout (there were three of us on the visit). Finally, those any locals who help to locate an elephant expect a tip. In our case it was a group of children, to whom we paid 50 birr at the suggestion of the scout

Coffee Tours

Addis Advisor writes:

Epic Ethiopia Travel & Tours is a new company specialised, among other things, in coffee-related trips to two of Ethiopia’s three major coffee growing areas i.e Jimma/Bonga in Kaffa southwest of Addis Ababa, and Sidamo, south of Hawassa, where the world famous Yorgachaffe is grown….. both are about 350 km from Addis Ababa

The owner, Ato Mesai Haileleul, is a returnee from the US who is also opening an art gallery in Bole next month

Thus his preferred email is mesai@addisfineart.com

Tour firm www.epicethiopia.com

Art gallery www.addisfineart.com

Netsa Art Village

Henok Getachew of the Netsa Art Village writes: “I would like to ask you to put our art village on your website. We are an artist collective which works to establish a Living Museum of Modern art in Ethiopia we have different kinds of Art works in our Gallery, our location is inside Ferensay park near French Embassy.
our website is www.netsaartvillage.com
Mobile: +251911953366″

Addis Ababa art gallery updates

ASNI (owned by Konjit who used to run the Asni gallery in Farensay) has
now moved to Arat kilo (English church area) a little bit before Ras Amba
hotel coming from Arat Kilo. It has a sign in English and Amharic on the
black metal gate.

TALISMAN GALLERY (Contemporary Art Gallery owned by the artist Massimo de
Vita) is located in the Old Airport area close to St Gabriel church, next
to save the children. At the old airport  roundabout coming from Sarbet
you take the exit towards the church (not towards the Golf course, which
would be the second exit coming from Sarbet/Pushkin square,  but the next
one, the third) and you drive straight, when you get to the Mulmul bakery
on your left, you turn left and it will be the first street on your left.
It is in the ground floor of the Salvatore de Vita complex, which also one
of the nicer apartment and office complexes in Addis.
www.talismanethiopia.com
cell: +251 91 150 79 69
office:  +251 11 372 48 91

ATELIER fine art gallery is located Mexico (just below the roundabout,
behind the Showroom bar and restaurant, there is also a WV garage there –
on the road that goes from Mexico roundabout to Sarbet/Pushkin roundabout)
+251 911 124 360

ECAG – Ethiopian contemporary Art Gallery is located on the Ring road,
between the Gerji roundabout and the exit for Bole Medhane Alem. As far as
I can tell this is the priciest one of them all.
www.ethiopiancontemporaryart.com
Map and contact info available on the website.

Other places where I have seen interesting contemporary art:
Makush Art Gallery and restaurant – on Bole road,Mega Building, the right
hand side of the road if going towards airport)

Another gallery/art shop (I don’t know the name) – next to the US AID
building in the Bole Olympia area (where the road goes from Kazanchis
towards bole Olympia) – there is a building that contains several
interesting shops including KDesign (scarves, etc), Gigi (Persian
furniture) and this art gallery with some nice contemporary local art.

The What’s out Addis monthly publication lists over 30 galleries with
phone numbers but no address (you can get the publication at Lime tree in
Bole among other places).

Liza D

Addis Ababa news

It wasn’t love on first sight, but already the second day I really started to enjoy this city. It simply has so much to offer when it comes to culture (music, coffee houses, partying,…)

I visited two museums: The IES which I liked a lot, including the Lime Tree Bar and the university grounds and the National Museum (with Lucy). I found both equally interesting, maybe good to do one on your first day and one on the last day. Most people prefer the IES.

Interesting contacts:

Tess:

Tesfaye Gebreselassie, Driver Guide (works for Diversity Tours), Tel 0251.91.140.64.06 and tesfayegeb2007@yahoo.com and www.diversitytoursethiopia.com

Tess was our driver from Lalibela back to Addis. He was the first and basically only Ethiopian with whom I had the feeling of having a real contact. He’s open minded, used to tourists, very chilled and generous. He’s not waiting for a tip, gives money himself to beggars and was very honest with us. He works for the Diversity Tour company and very likely will be able to help you out with several questions (and not necessarily expecting to be paid for every detail, opposite to some others in the business).

To explore

– Tour of the local artists (real artists, not the ones who just copy). Mr Yitbarek: He’s working as a guide in the national museum, an older man. He also did some of the organization of the modern art section museum. He proposed me to have a tour at some artist ateliers, but suggested I should visit Asni Gallery first to find out which artist I preferred. I talked to him a long time and had a very good feeling about him, but too bad no extra day. Yitbarek, 0911759045 and yitbarek3@yahoo.com

Danny Jacqmot

Asni & Lela Galleries

Asni moved from its original location to a place not far from the French Embassy, the road is called “Eritrea road”. However, it is true that Konjit’s Asni gallery does not exist anymore. However a number of artists opened up an artist’s house in the building Asni had moved to. At the moment the artists have an exhibition around the topic “leather” which can be visited.

Another place where art lovers can enjoy contemporary art by Ethiopian artists is Lela Gallery. Lela is found in Old Airport not far from Residence of the Chinese Embassy. There are signs leading to the gallery. The gallery also offers the opportunity to meet artists while having drinks or food as it could also be described as an arts-cafe. Definitely a “must have seen” place! For more information you may call the owner Lily Sahle +251.911.300756

Asni Gallery closed

since i am very interested in contemporary arts i was keen on visiting the asni gallery in addis.
my taxi driver spent a lot of research and investigating until we finally arrived at the gates of the park surrounding the building. i was happy to have finally arrived.
my happiness turned into frustration when a non-english-speaking girl guided me from the park-gate to the building which was in a state of decay, uninhabited, empty: she even led me through the (very beautiful) building: empty rooms, traces of what seemed to have been pictures/hangings, nobody nowhere. it was an eerie experience, some of the rooms where completely black – had the house burned? had the walls been deliberately blackened?
in the garden i saw sculptures, but again there was nobody.
neither the girl nor a woman we later on accosted spoke english but whenever i asked “asni gallery?” i got “yellem” as an answer. they understood what i wanted and they gave me whatever information they had: the gallery did not exist any more.
of course i wanted to make sure if i had been led to a kind of fake asni-gallery, but, no, “this asni” they confirmed. and then “yellem”.
on my way home i checked if my taxi driver had taken any wrong turns etc., but, no, the itinerary had been right.
there was no asni gallery.

elisabeth from austria