Dec 2015 trip report

Garth Thomson writes:

Our General Travel report in Ethiopia! We were traveling for 21 days in Ethiopia. To the North part and south part of Ethiopia.
Our first lovely night started in Addis at traditional club where a lot local people were having Tej and doing shoulder dance was fascinating night.

The next day we fly to Bahir Dar and we drove by our driver and our knowledgable guide Eyosi about 35 km south of Bahirdar to see the Blue Nile falls. The road was really gravel road need to repair. Our guide told us they call it “African massage” was bumpy but the falls and the bridge was great we also spotted many different kind of birds. In the After noon we had boat trip over Lake Tana to see the monasteries over the islands. We visited two of them kibran Gebriel and Ura Kidanemeheret.

On the 2nd day we drove to Gondar which is paved and took us 4 hours we made a lot of stops on the way driving to see the unique landscape was marvellous. Gondar is also nice with good temperature we visit the medieval castle enclosure and the Church of Debre Berhan Selassie with its unique murals. We stayed at Goha hotel very nice view over the town and great staff. We carried on the Simien Mountains for the following 4 days to get close to more wild fauna and flora. The gelada Baboon was really friendly we had a chance to see them like half a km distance and their social life are fascinating. The landscape at Imetgogo are breathtaking you shouldn’t miss Imetgogo if you ever travel in the Simien mountains You can reach there in three days but we made up to Chennek we saw the walia ibex and we saw Imetgogo in different angle still beautiful. On the fourth day we picked up at Chenek and drove back to Debark where the nearest town for the mountains. In the morning we heading to Axum through the lowland part of the Simien Mountains. After 40 km gravel road It was paved road the view through is impressive. The town has a lot to visit Archeological Museum, tombs,steale, Churches which believed to be where ark of the covenant live.

After one full day tour we exceeded to Hawzen via Adigrat on the way we visited Ethiopia’s earliest known capital city of Yeha which is considered as the birthplace of the country’s earliest civilization. Its single most remarkable antiquity is the well-preserved walls of the 12m-high stone temple of the moon that is thought to be over 2500 years old.

There was Another possible excursion called Debre Damo monastery (only accessible for men). We missed it but we heard it is very interesting. We stayed the only lodge which is in a good standard and has a nice view from the room.

We visited 2 Churches which is the most beautiful out of many of them. The most impressive are Abuna Yemata Guh, Debre Maryam Korkor /Abreha we Atsheba church/.Abune Yemata Was our favor church and need rock climbing a bit scary once you are on the church has great view. So, take good walking shoes if you go there. In the next day we drove to Mekelle And visit the 17th century palace-museum of Emperor Yohannes IV. Overnight we stayed in Axum Hotel.

In the morning drive to Lalibela to visit Lalibela and its rock-hewn church are thought, to date the 12th and 13th century during King Lalibela reign. The churches are remarkable since they are entirely freed from the rock, refined and concentrated in small land. we stayed in Mountain View hotel. We had 2 nights there to visit the Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, so called “the eight wonder of world “start to visit the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela which are clustered in to visit the three group of churches. We stayed at Mountain View Hotel we found it great. The next day we Continued sightseeing around Made excursion to visit Asheton Mariam by mule also possible drive and walk up hill. Nice monasteries on the top of the mountains and nice view down to the town. In the morning fly from Lalibela to Addis Ababa. After staying one night in Addis drove to Addis to Arbaminch on the way we stop to see The Steles in Tiya Dated back to 12th century AD. One of the World heritage sites. We stayed the night at Bekele Mola Hotel in Arbaminch which is an old hotel and the staff are very good.

In Arbaminch we had Boat excursion on lake Chamo to spot the Corocodile and Hippos. In the after noon we went to Dorze tribes and their villages to see their thatched house and handcrafts.

On the 2nd day of our southern tour we traveled to Turmi: visit the Konso and Aribore village. We stayed in Turmi lodge was good but possible to camping we were happy staying at the lodge. On the next day at Turmi: Visit the famous Hamer tribes’ market and their villages. Thay are famous with their hair style but unfortunately we didn’t see the bull jump which is taken for wedding ceremony.

After two night in Turmi carried on to Jinka: Visit includes the Benna and Ari tribes en route. We stayed Orit hotel which we didn’t like it hot shower didn’t work.

The next Day we had one day trip to Mago National Park and the Popular Mursi tribes and their villages they are very famous cutting their lip and put clay their small hut with tiny date looks you step on it. Stayed at jinka Resort which is the nice place to stay in the whole town. Recommended.

Then we drove back to Arbaminch: En route visit of the Tsemay tribes and their villages. We had another night at Bekele Mola Hotel.Finally we fly from Arba Minch to Addis our trip end up.

We had outstanding holiday there which we didn’t expect it.

I highly recommend to do this tour if you get three weeks holiday. I wanted to recommend Eyosi Worede / Tiftu/ as tour organiser and tour guide! He made our trip in Ethiopia memorable and pleasant he is extremely knowledgeable guide who has a passion for sharing beauty of his country and his region with visitors highly recommended as organiser
& guide.  tiftu_2010@hotmail.com, +251912658734.

Jehu & Laia’s trip report

Here our comments / special mention regarding our 20-day trip North and East Ethiopia. 5th August – 25th August
Addis Ababa
Hotels:
Regency Hotel in Piazza. Upmarket. Double room w/breakfast 100$. Very good location, clean and comfortable. Good breakfast. Wifi low speed. Airport shuttle complimentary.
Haimi Apartment Hotel in Bole, beside MK restaurant and Enya restaurant. Upmarket. Double room suite w/breakfast and dinner 120$. Excellent location. Amazing suites with great views of the city. Breakfast is very good. Continental dinner not that good. Wifi high speed. Very appropriate for business trips and tourist.
Restaurants:
Piazza:
Addis Ababa Restaurant. Very good traditional food in a nice traditional house.
Castelli’s. This Italian restaurant is now closed under restoration.
Bole:
Habesha Restaurant. Excellent traditional food and good live traditional music. We found this one more sophisticated and higher level than Addis Ababa Restaurant.
Enya Restaurant. Excellent greek food.
Bahir Dar
Hotels
Bed & Breakfast The Annex. Tel. 0918727504. Nice patio full of birds and flowers. Clean rooms and shared bathroom. Very good breakfast. Double room 40$
Restaurants
Special mention to the restaurant of Kuriftu Resort. More expensive than other restaurants in Bahir Dar, but the food is excellent and the location / atmosphere / environment is romantic and beautiful.
Lake monasteries
Half day trip by boat including the lake monasteries Kibran Gebriel, Bet Maryam, Uda Kidane Mihret and Debre Maryam, 150 birr pp with shared boat from Ghion Hotel. Otherwise 600 birr per boat.
Day trip by boat to Gorgora including visit to Daga Istafanos, Narga Selassie (Dek Island) and Debre Sina Maryam (Gorgora), 3000 birr per boat.
Gorgora
If you arrive to Gorgora by boat after 5pm, it is very possible you will not find any kind of transportation to Gonder. So you will have to overnight in Gorgora Hotel. This is what happened to us. “1st class rooms” in front of the lake were fully booked by Chinese families. I think there were only two of these. We had to sleep in a 2nd class room for around 200 birr for a double room. Dirty, bedbugs, toilet was a place to avoid if possible. Simply nasty. Food in the hotel restaurant was eatable.
Gondar
Hotels
Goha hotel. A good choice both hotel and restaurant are good. They offered 50% discount for low season. Around 40$ including breakfast.
Gondar to Axum by road
We went to the Tourist Information Office and decided to contact a 4×4 driver called Mamoush Tel. 0918773409, following “Anton’s trip report” of April 2012. He was really friendly and helpful all the time. We hired him for 5-6 days to do the Gondar – Axum (2 nights) – Debre Damo / Adigrat – Gheralta (2 nights) – Axum flight to Lalibela. Price per day ranges between 150$ to 200$ including driver’s food and accommodation, depending on your negotiation skills and length of the journey. You will probably have to pay an extra day for him to go back to Gondar. Even though it is not cheap, i really recommend this 4×4 trip as a way to optimize your time when visiting churches in the Gheralta / Adigrat. Also the scenery is magnificent from Gondar to Axum.
Axum
Hotels
Yeha hotel. 70$ double room without breakfast. We found it expensive. The hotel is comfortable and the restaurant is nothing special but good.
Restaurants
AB restaurant (beside Ethiopian Airlines). Nice patio and environment, good traditional food in the birr 40 – 60 range.
Other
We were lucky during our stay in Axum and had the chance to see a morning ceremony (4am-7am) including a night walk of thousands of people with candles following monks and the ark of the covenant (replica).
Adigrat
A superb recommendation in Adigrat, don’t miss the restaurant of the Geza Gerelase Hotel. The meat is excellent there and inexpensive, both lamb and beef/ox. They use this kind of local wassabe for the meat… Coffee ceremony and so on, in a very traditional tukul restaurant. By the way, kurt was awesome…
Gheralta Lodge / Rock-hewn churches
What to say about this place…? It is just perfect. One of the highlights of the trip. I wish we had had more days to spend in the Gheralta Lodge / rock hewn monasteries. We will come back for sure 3 or 4 more days the day we visit the Danakil..
The rock-hewn churches are something else. We visited Abuna Yemata Guh, Abreha Ye Atsbeha and Wukro Chirkos in the same day. Abuna Yemata Gut is espectacular. An unforgettable experience. For me it was far better than Debre Damo. Abreha Ye Atsbeha is also excellent in paintings.
A good guide near the Gheralta lodge, but cheaper: Haile Selassie (it is not a joke!) 0914041123. We payed him 250 birr.
Lalibela
Hotels
We had a reservation at Mountain View Hotel. As soon as we got there, we decided this hotel was not for us. Extremely overrated, 75$ for an awful / retro / unpleasant double room. The entire hotel looks like if they had left things half done, as if they had finished the investment before completion and not payed attention to details. The only good thing was the restaurant. Its Jamaican chef cooks really well. So we had lunch and moved to Tukul Village. Tukul Village is simply excellent. Try to get room 23, is the best one in the hotel. Price 57$ double room including breakfast.
Restaurants
Seven Olives. Excellent traditional food and pasta, 150 birr per person.
Other
Outside Lalibela we visited Genata Maryam. 700 birr for the car. For us was not really worth it, specially if you have visited some churches in the Tigrai.
Harar
Hotels
We spent 4 nights in Harar getting some rest and enjoying the end of Ramadam. I do recommend Rowda Guest House Tel. 0256662211, 350 birr double room w/ breakfast. Breakfast isnt very good but… at least you are in the Old Harar, in a nice traditional Harari house. One of the rooms has bathroom, as for the other is shared. Price is always the same.
I don’t recommend Zubeyda Guest House. They are family with Rowda but the service is awful. To give an example, we had our reservation in Rowda, but by mistake we went the first night to Zubeyda. They didnt say this wasnt Rowda. The following day, when we found out this was another guesthouse, we decided to move because of course we had a reservation in Rowda. They tried to charge us 700 birr instead 350 birr for one night! they said we had used two beds instead of one!!! There was a sad discusion, we paid 350 and go.
Recommended guide for Harar: Sisse 0913450433. We enjoyed his company and attention for 4 days. We had a chat experience with him one of the days. That’s something I really recommend. Another day, he prepared in his home an excellent meal: young camel goulash and also beef tips. Excellent. We drunk Goudar red wine…
In Harar you can buy excellent coffee in the Harar Coffee Company. Very cheap and excellent taste.
A good place to drink one of these awesome juices with three colours: green, orange and pink (avocado, papaya or mango and guava) is Mermaid Cafe, 1st Street. Coffee is also excellent. A better breakfast than in Rowda Guesthouse.
Babile and the Valley of Marvels
If you have time in Harar, Babile is worth a visit. The camel market is very interesting and colourful. As for the Valley of Marvels, i recommend a short trek over there. We were lucky and found about 100 vultures eating dead camels!!
Ethiopia is top of the list for us, a destination you cannot miss.
Cheers
Jehu & Laia from Sitges, Barcelona

Anton’s trip report

Thanks to Anton for sending us this trip report from his visit to Ethiopia in September 2011.

 

Weather: I think, September is not the best time to visit E., because there’s still heavy rainfall, most in Addis, during midday and afternoon, but otherwise everything is flourishing

 

Addis Ababa:

 

On Bole Road there are almost ALL African embassies.

 

I can recommend Bole Ambassador Hotel near the airport (www.boleambassadorhotel.com) for those who only want to overnight, but you have to pay 90 US for a single and 120 US for a double room (including buffet breakfast). The transport to and fro the airport is FREE

 

I also can recommend RAS-Hotel at Churchill Rd. Many travellers; clean; Taxis in front oft he hotel; but you have to bargain a lot! To Airport is 10$US. If you wan t to rent a taxi for a few hours: that will cost you 250 BIRR. Opposite of RAS-Hotel, there’s a street, where you can find fast internet!

 

Near RAS-Hotel you can find GALAXY TRAVEL, where you can book flights etc. People, who want to got to South-OMO, should ask there for Mr. Tesfaye MIDEKSO; he’s the guy with all info. A 10 day trip will cost you up to 2400 EURO

 

Lufthansa is now in AXUM Building! Within walking distance: go from Meskel-Square in direction of Haile Selassie Road outtown, and after the Carnivore Resti, go the next broad street tot your right.

 

Address: PO Box 3484, Axum Building, Urael Church to Atlas Hotel Road, Addis Ababa

 

Eating: If you like American/European food go to “Carnivore Addis Restaurant“ Salad-Buffet; good menus. Not far form Meskel-Square; Haile Gebre Selassie-Road, right

side

 

 

Money:

ATM: maximal withdrawal  5000 Birr per day, Exchange rate €1=25 BIRR; US$1=19 BIRR

 

Postcard < 5 Birr

Water 2 Litre bottle: 8-10 Birr

Café  Espresso: 5 Birr

 

If you want to spend a lot of money, go to Sheraton Hotel  for a mixed fruit juice, very delicious, but 120 BIRR!!!!

 

 

Bahir Dar

 

I recommend to take a flight. The airport is a kind of joke, still under construction! Baggage claim is out of the airport, there’s a building to your left, where all the hotels have their boards. Here you can get a transport to YOUR hotel.

 

I choose the Summerland-Hotel; the guy for this Hotel is Mr. Haile Yesus, he’s a good but somehow expensive man! But you can trust him, he can help you in any way!

 

To do the Nile-Falls with a guide and private taxi you pay US$50. The falls are now full of water again!!!

 

Summerland-Hotel: single is 500 Birr (with breakfast). Because of water pressure take only room at 1st or 2nd floor!

 

Ghion Hotel is right now not in a good state

 

Zege Peninsula:  if you can see only these 2 churches, this will be fine! The boat is 750 birr! Entrance fee to the church is 50 birr. Guide 110 birr: this is o.k., because he knows all the pictures and can describe them. There are al lot of  souvenir stalls, but the people are very friendly and not pressured.

 

Other monasteries on the lake:

 

The boat costs you 2400 BIRR: this will be a very long day, starting at 0600 in the morning until 1900 in the evening. Most of daytime you will spend on the boat. Important: Bring some warm clothes with you, otherwise you will freeze!

 

Because of time limits you can visit only 3 churches, if you have different wishes, that will cost you more! Of interest is in my opinion only the Selassie church. Otherwise I think it’s not worth the money and the time, but….

 

Tana Kirkos: it’s a very beautiful island, but the monk is crazy: he asks 150 Birr entrance fee (monk’s law, as he said!!). The view from top oft he island is spectacular! We didn’t pay and therefore I don’t know, if the inside oft he church is worth to visit! The „last“ church next to town is Debre Maryam – is in a very bad state; I suggest, NOT to visit!;

 

Otherwise the bird nests at the lakeside in the papyrus are very nice

 

Mixed Fruit-Juice in Harar Supermarket – go down the ally from R/A (warrior monumentl) to the south; after 100 meters it’s on the right side! A very tasty fruitjuice costs you 8 BIRR (in Gonder you pay 11 birr)

 

1 Kilo Bananas  12-15 Birr

 

We shared a taxi (3 persons) to Gonder, that is 1500 Birr, this is not bad and has a big advantage: you can stop on your way to Gonder and can visit the GUZARA castle which is world heritage and well worth to see: the view unto the lake is wonderful and also the site itself; entrance is 50 birr. There’s a good guide, he knows a lot of stuff and speaks a decent English

 

 

 

Gonder:

 

This is NOT a really Must see-city; it’s no good place, in my opinion, only the castle is really worth to see.

 

There’s no need to take a guide, they charge 120-150 birr;  the entrance is 50 birr

 

1 night is enough there!

 

I overnight at Atse Bekaffa Hotel: 25 US per night for a single room; had a lot of flees and other bugs!!!

 

Near this hotel is a very good restaurant: Habesha Coffee Shop

 

The only thing to stop in Gonder is to rent a car with driver! We did this at the wonderful Tourist Information! There’s a very good manager there, where we discussed the possibility to go by private car to Axum (and first to Simien lodge). He recommended us the freelancer Mamoush! After all we have been driving around with this guy for 3 weeks(!). This cost you for the car (and fuel) 150 US per day!! It was the best thing we could do and was worth every penny!

 

We did with „our“ driver the whole north: Simien Mountains, Axum, Gheralta, Mekele, Lalibela)

 

Don’t forget in Gonder to visit  church Debre Berhan Selassie: because of the ceiling paintings!!

 

The drive from Gonder to Debark is remarkable

 

 

Simien Mountains

 

Park entry in Debark 100 Birr; office can not be easily seen, but it’s on the left of the main road. They speak a very good English. In Debark they can arrange everything; you can buy food and all stuff you need! A scout is obligatory; he is carrying  the usual AK 47. There’s plenty of food around the shops in town! Debark is one oft he most dirty towns I’ve every seen (in rainy season!)

 

Simien Lodge; wonderful house; a family room is in total 250 BIRR, breakfast is included. It‘s very cold there! In the evening everybody is sitting round an open chimney.The food is not bad!

 

Be aware, that if you are trekking there, you are NOT alone: there are living a lot of people along the trekking paths, the settlement is all around and there’s a lot of cattle there!

 

The geladas are easily to find, not far away from the lodge, they are used to people and are not afraid of man! The kids will show you the way to some; but as you have a guide/scout and so on, of course they will do this! With a car you can go to Chennek and further on! There are a lot of roads up there! So trekking is not very nice! Our driver told us, you can go almost to the base camp of Ras Dejen! To drive there is only a matter of money!

 

From Simien lodge to Chennek it will cost you by car 100 US!! And it is WORTH it!!! Spectacular view!  A big waterfall  is there! For the drive to this place and back by car, you need a whole day!

 

 

 

Axum:

 

Yeha-Hotel; very good with nice view from the stelae ; the food is so la la!

 

Don’t forget to visit Panteleon-monastery: going  up and down is wonderful! The view from top is incredible.

 

Guide for a whole day is 250 BIRR. If you take an „official“ guide, he will take 400 birr!

 

Temple of Yeha: wonderful surroundings, you should see this! – have a look at the so called LION-shaped mountain

 

There are many wonderful  landscapes on your way to Gheralta Lodge, one oft he best I have ever seen: it’s a mixture of Grand Canyon, Patagonia, Scotland and so on; you will see many birds!

 

Debre Damo:

On your way you will pass Debre Damo church: be sure to be fit, as you must climb up on a rope, almost 20 meters, that was quite an experience: the people managing the rope will of course help you going up and down!! As a matter of fact, they will pull you up, if you have no strength. 20 birr is the price: don’t pay any money before you are UP!! –Whatever the people downstairs tell you. Pay for the entrance to the church on top oft he hill!! The price is 150 birr. But ask first, if there is a service in the church, if it is so, they would not let you in, but they take of course your money!!!! In our case it was so, so we had a lot of troubles to get our money back!! Best, to give the money directly to the priest or to his helper!

 

Gheralta

Gheralta Lodge is a wonderful hotel ; we spent 3 days here, but you should stay longer; the landscape is extraordinary: we have visited all churches in the surrounding ; the food here is „Italiano“ and wonderful! There are a lot of table mountains and other fantastic rocky formations!

 

The church Peter & Paul was beautiful:  the rest oft he churches are not really highlights, but you should visit at least a few oft hem!

 

Atsbi Cluster ist an absolutely must!

 

The priests are almost a big disaster; but they all have now persons, who will open the churches for you, even when the priest is NOT there! We could visit all churches: there has always been a person there, who could open the doors!!

 

If you have car and driver, you must visit Abba Yohannis: you will need a whole day; it‘s best to do on your way from Gheralta lodge to Mekele: don’t plan to come back to Gheralta lodge

 

 

Mekele & Erta Ale:

 

Axum Hotel is not bad; I must say, the food is good. There’s is free internet in the lobby!

 

Near the hotel ist he office of GK Tours and a very helpful tourist office: i must mention the head of the tourist office, Mr Gebrehiwot Taddesse. E-Mail – hotgereth2007@yahoo.com – he was very helpful and has a lot of infos!

 

He can help you in all ways, especially, if you want go to Danakil depression: i was in contact with him, when I decided this January to visit Erta Ale and he told me immediately, that there was an assault, where 5 tourists died in an attack by terrorists (so I had to quit this trip)

 

But HE has the latest info and will help you to prepare your trip!!

 

You have to pay for Erta Ale per person 500 €, if you are lucky to join a group: Mr. Taddesse will see to that and can put you on a group!!!

 

If you want to got by yourself, that will cost you at least 2000 €

 

Lalibela:

 

I recommend Hotel Tukai Village, also Mr. Bill Clinton had an overnite here (without Monica)! The restaurant is good, but only a few meals; the rooms are very spacious. Every hotel organizes transport to he airport; it’s 70 Birr and less.

 

The bugs bites you get in the churches are terrible!! Especially women will have a very bad time there!

 

 

 

Do some of the churches near of Lalibela: at least Genata Maryam and Yemrehanna Kristos. Car and driver is necessary

 

 

 

Harar

A visit to the hyenas is an absolutely MUST, this is strange, but I will never forget this trip; I visited the hyenas twice because I was so excited ; you can feed them by your own hand, and it’s……whooow!

 

Expect to pay at least 150 birr for this remarkable adventure. The animals are strolling around a courtyard and they will touch you…..

 

Guides are already asking you for helping at the airport at Dire Dawa: if you go with them to Harar, that will save you time; but it’s very costly and you should bargain hard! For 3 days I paid 130 US (!)

 

The Belayneh Hotel is not a bad choice: 200 Birr night. They can organize everything. „Harar Ras Hotel“  was under construction

The town itself is world heritage; nice old city, good for  walking, don’t expect much; but you can feel, that the people are not very friendly with tourists. The main thing are the hyenas and from them you will see a lot!