I was in Ethiopia in December last year and was so glad to have the Bradt guidebook 6th edition with me–an invaluable resourse of good information. A highlight for me was the Kulubi festival that takes place twice a year (on 26 July and 28 December with the December one being the bigger one allegedly) in the small village of Kulubi (near Dire Dawa/Harar – see p 407-8). It is the biggest pilgrimage in Ethiopia with ca. 100.000 people going there to see the St. Gabriel church, to pray and celebrate. It is a fascinating spectacle and very few tourist go there. I, like most Ethiopians, went there a day early and stayed overnight drinking beer with the locals in some shack to get a very early morning start to pilgrimage to the church at dawn. The whole experience was very unique and compelling. If you’re in Harar at that time when it is happening, it is definitely worth to go there to see an orthodox ceremony that is very spiritual and quite overwhelming.