I took a 4×4 trip from Gonder to Axum on the dirt track. The whole trip was just incredibly dusty and dust got into everything including through the bag zippers! If I had known this would be the case, I would have asked my luggage to be wrapped or covered so they would have stayed clean. Perhaps it is worth adding another tip to the section on dust on page 130, to also consider wrapping or covering the luggage on dusty roads.
Axum was a big disappointment and low light of the whole trip. My impression is that besides the stelaes and the adjacent museum there is nothing else worth visiting there. And the hotels in Axum are the worst. Only dial-up internet everywhere. Both days I was there, the mobile network and the internet were just clogged up. From reading the guide book, I dropped Bahir Dar and went to Axum instead as I did not have time to do both. After talking to several other tourists who visited Bahir Dar, and my own visit to Axum, I regret this decision. If I were to do it all over again, I would skip Axum. Also, I could not find references to laundry nor ATM in the guide book under Axum. The Remhai hotel I stayed at (with discoloured sheets, towels and bed bugs / mosquitoes) could not do my laundry. Luckily my guide took my laundry to another place in Axum and got it done. (Note from PB – there is still no ATM in Axum)
I booked all my domestic flights over the internet on Ethiopia airline website from London. It just happened to coincide with a promotion and I bought all the tickets so much cheaper without any hassle compared to buying them inside Ethipia. For any change of date, they were charging 100Birr with out exemption.