Archive for the ‘Axum’ Category

Thanks to John Grinling for the following corrections & updates:

P. 159, « The Churches of Kiddist Maryam etc. »  2nd para, first line :
The church named Kiddist Maryam you are speaking about here is not
located at C4 on the map p.162. As you mention, the Kiddist Maryam
church you are speaking about is situated just beside Beta Maryam
where the Menelik II Mausoleum can be found. These two churches are
both are on the western side of the Guebbi, at D1 on the map p.162.
The church situated on that map at C4 is another Kidist Maryam,
therefore also dedicated to St Mary.

P. 185, map : please spell “Tilili” and not “Tiliili”

P. 230 – I would also suggest you mellow down the over emphasized mention of :
“…the world most persistent shoeshine boys…” – I stayed four
days in Debark and could not find event one listro.

P. 256 – “… escape the yelling kids and wanabe guides…” (p. 256) – During a
leisurely week spent in Axum, I particularly appreciated being left
close to totally undisturbed. By the way, the Abinet Hotel seemed to
me particularly well maintained and friendly, and does not make use of
Faranji prices. The prices are cheap – in the range of 200 and 250
birr – and the same for all. It is rare enough to be stressed.


P. 406, one paragraph before the bottom of the page, you mention
“An ambitious excursion from Asbe Teferi…” in the direction of Machara
and the Mt Arba Gugu. Both are not “further east”, as you write, but clearly towards the
south west, as Machara is situated on the continuation, direction
south west, of the road to Kuni. Your book speaks also, first line p.
407, of Kuni being 25 km south east of Asbe Teferi. It should read
south west.


 

Matthew Birt writes:

I enjoyed reading and made good use of everyone else’s information, so I thought I ought to contribute:

 

Dec/Jan 2014

Travelled solo, independently using local transport

 

Bradt Guidebook excellent

 

General

 

Generally felt very safe and welcome

Quite a lot of hassle from kids, beggars, tourist touts, blokes in the street – quite consistent, but not that persistant and certainly not threatening in any way. Groups of kids are a right royal pain in the ____ .

 

Transport pretty good. People always really helpful – and I always got to where I was heading, even if I’m not sure how. Roads generally good and traffic free – all the driver has to worry about are the people standing in the middle of it and the aimlessly wandering livestock

Cheap tuk-tuks just about everywhere – seem to have replaced garis in most places

Mobile phone coverage generally good – cheap and quick to get sim (need photocopy of passport and photo)

 

Everything seemed very inexpensive – accomm, transport, food, etc

Easy to change cash in banks/airport

ATMs in a lot of places – Dashen and Commercial Bank worked for me

 

Forgotten how noisy Africa is, especially at night – or at least it was where I slept. Every night. My top tip – take the finest ear plugs money can buy. As well as eye drops (for the dust) and lip balm (for the sun).

 

Budget hotels – apart from in Harar – always provided towel, toilet paper and soap.

 

Weather – always sunny and hot during day – 25-30 C. No rain. In some towns, pretty cold early morning and night and required two fleeces (e.g. Debark, Debre Birhan, Abese Teferi)

 

Bole Airport

 

Arrived 2am, and stayed in there until morning flight to Axum. Felt safe, although pretty cold. Nowhere nice to sleep, try and get into domestic terminal departures asap where there are comfortable loungers.

 

 

 

Axum

 

Hotel reps waiting at airport with free transport

Africa House – fine – 175B en suite single

Thought Tsion Maryam complex at 200B a rip-off, considering much of it closed and under refurbishment

Really enjoyed walk out to Debre Liqanos Monastry

 

Shire

 

Africa Hotel – fine – 150B – adjacent restaurant good but noisy at night

Nice just to be in a normal town, without the tourist ‘nonsense’

Good to walk out of town into countryside to see ‘real’ Ethiopia

 

Debark

 

Bus from Shire didn’t leave until after 7, even though told to be there at 5. Awful road. Wonderful Simien scenery for 10 hours or so!

Simien Park Hotel – good – 250B en suite single

Unique Landscape next door also looked good, but slightly more expensive.

If not trekking, negotiate hard and get a number of quotes for your day trip into the national park – tourist touts, argh!!!

 

Gondar

 

Queen Taitu Pension – 200B en suite single. Poor. No hot water, etc. Noisy.

Moved to  Belegez Pension, 200B, water still a problem, but quieter and nicer courtyard

Four Sisters Restaurant – great food and fantastic dancing. Before I left I didn’t think some contrived dance show for tourists would be a highlight of my trip. But it was. Go and see for yourself.

 

As solo, negotiated guide fee down to 100B (rather than 200) for castle complex

 

Kosoye also a highlight. Easy to get to (30-40 mins north of Gondar). Had a very nice breakfast at Befikir Ecolodge, which is visible from main road. Staff super friendly. Then great walk down into valley. Scout cost 100B, and worth every penny. Tough going.  Highly recommended.

 

Bahir Dar

 

Wudie Pension -  nice big room – 200B.

Ghion looked really run down to me, although good spot for meeting fellow tourists.

Tread carefully with the tourist touts in town. Both half day trips to the lake monastries and waterfall were shambolic and a rip-off. Average price paid seemed to be 200B/person, but I’m sure you can get for less. Get itinerary and any additional costs written down. You have been warned! Good for meeting other (equally hacked-off) tourists though!

Lucky with Blue Nile Falls – water was flowing – and another highlight.

 

Lalibela

 

There for Christmas, so very busy and accomm prices x2 or x3 normal rate

Hotel Lalibela, been refurbished and now rather swish. $45/double en suite

Private Roha – very basic, but felt safe – 400B/twin shared facilities

Recommend Unique Restarant opposite Asheton – cheap and good fun

Walk up to Asheton Maryam good, although hard

 

Used local guide  – Zewudu Melak – +251 (0) 913636414 – for churches – nice guy – only ‘guide’ I used that I can recommend

 

Lake Hayk

 

Logo Hayk Lodge (I think, maybe name changed, not sure)

This place could probably be very peaceful and relaxing, but not on Christmas Day with a huge party going on!

230B/hut ensuite for okayish room (150B if you’re Ethiopian!)

 

Debre Birhan

 

Akalu Hotel – reasonable place – 100B for ensuite

Really nice restaurant at Eva Hotel

 

Bishoftu

 

Alaf Hotel – bit noisy and water issues – 170B en suite. Great view of lake

 

Awash

 

Buffet D’Auoache – 150B/room – pretty nice and peaceful place. Dusty, nondescript town though

 

Managed to find a ‘guide’ to get me into Awash National Park by asking around at hotels. Hired a good minibus and driver for 1000B for the day (6am-6pm). Really enjoyed the reserve, it’s not the Serengeti, but saw quite a lot of game. Waterfalls fab. Awash Falls Lodge looked nice and was a good spot for lunch

 

Abese Teferi

 

Kebsch Int Lodge – decent room – 150B en suite; good restaurant attached

 

Got 6am bus direct to Kuni, found ‘guide’ quickly albeit using sign language and pointing to pictures in my Bradt Guide and visited Kuni Muktar Mountain Nyala Sanctuary. Not sure about ‘30-45 mins walk to river’. I got taken 2 hours up a bloody mountain, then 2 hours back down it. Not my ideal start to the day at 7 am. Fantastic though. Saw plenty of (skittish) nyala, warthogs, reedbuck and hyena.

 

Harar

 

Everyone I met moaned about the hotels in this place – except for those in the cultural guesthouses. The only town where I found that hotels were full

Trawfik Sharif Hotel – bit grim – bucket shower – 150B

Tewodros – 160B ensuite – okayish – despite stinking communal bathrooms at entrance

Belayneh – only offering doubles for 300B and water issues

Heritage Plaza looked more run down and mismanaged than guidebook suggests

Harar Ras – looked best bet – been refurbished – cheapest room 230B – good restaurant serving absolutely wonderful pizzas

Fresh Touch Restaurant – good, but expensive (for Ethiopia)

Hyena feeding cost me 100B – the greatest concentration of tourists I saw in one place throughout my 4 weeks in the country

 

Addis Ababa

 

Almaz Pension – 200B shared bathroom – clean, friendly, quiet, safe

Yod Abyssinia – good fun, if expensive – don’t go alone, sit at the front and be of above average height, otherwise you are liable to get dragged up on stage to dance – much to the amusement of the local crowd. This can lead to embarrassing flashbacks.

 

Have a good trip.

Natasha writes:

There are two guides I would like to recommend:
(1) Rufael Fitsum: rufael12@yahoo.com who guides in the Axum and Tigray region (and also took us to Danakil Depression).
(2) Girma Tilahun: girmatour@yahoo.com who is able to arrange trips all over Ethiopia (he is originally from Bale Mountains area) and accompanied us on a 10 day trip from Harer, through Awash and down to the Omo valley region.
Both these guides are fluent in English and demonstrated not just a wealth of information about the sites that we visited with them (delivered in an engaging and contextualised manner), but they also appeared to have excellent relationships with other local guides and hotel owners etc.  Both were excellent at spotting and negotiating photo opportunities
Girma in particular appeared to be well known everywhere we went
Rufael also has a keen interest in birds.
By way of context, we (me and husband in mid thirties) were travelling on a private tour organised.  These two guides were found for us by another agent in Addis who had organised our overall 22 day trip.
Christina writes:
All the rooms of the Africa Hotel in Axum have been painted and it is a pleasure to sleep in this cheap hotel and have a drink in the garden.
A cheap option to sleep in Lalibela is the Asheton Hotel. The rooms of the Asheton Hotel have been painted and doors and windows renewed. The bathroom is not  so clean.
Very near to the Asheton is the Seven Olives Hotel, where a drink or dinner in the gardens is a real treat.

Romana Roschinsky writes:

Just returned from a holiday in Ethiopia in July/August 2013. Your guide was really helpful. Although I did not have the latest verision, we ere in general very happy with the recommendations.
A few comments.

Ghion Hotel Bahir Dar.
The room we got for 300birr was ok, but not much more.
We approached the reception to organise a tour to the monastries. They referred us to a guy on the porch. Later we found out that he is some relative of the manager.
We were booked for a tour and promised to see between 4-5 monastries the next day starting from 8.00. The tour was said to be 250birr/person and last around 4-5 hours. We were told there was an extra 100 birr entrance fee for Ura Kidane Mihret church but he adviced us that woud be worth it. And we could enter the monastry compounds of the other monastries without paying and decide if we wanted to enter the buildings. Then we would be charged accordingly. We thought allright.
We were ready the next day. Had to wait with all other tourists for an hour, but that was ok. We went to Zege Peninsula where we were welcomed by our guide. We visited Ura Kidane Mihret and it was perfectly fine. Then we made it back to the boat.
Passing another island the boat guy said the monastery would be closed, but thhere was a museum that the men could enter. The men on our boat refused out of solidarity. We approached a second island and disembarked. We wanted wo move around the compound but were told we woul dhave to pay yet another 100birr per person. We refused, discussed that we had been told we could at least move around on th ecompound and asked to be brought to another place. The boat guy did so but at the next monastry the same game. We refused again. As “compensation” he offered us to take us to the Nile outlet. We agreed. The promised Hippos were nowhere to be seen because: The temperatures were too cold. What a stupid lie.
Back at Ghion Hotel We approached our organizer. First I asked him to give back the extra 50birr he had charged me but not the other tourists. He did that. Then all of us complained that we did not get what we payed for and were really disappointed. We asked him what he yould offer us. He said it was not his fault and shoved the boat owner into our faces. He tried to run off several times but we always managed to confront him again. He said we could go again to the lake but none of us was interested after spending hours on the water already. He refused to do anything else for us.
So I strongly advise against booking the Tana monastry tours at Ghion Hotel in Bahir Dar. A bad idea.

Gonder:
Queen Taitu Pension is a terrible accommodation. We were put into a room with mould across all walls. The smell was disgusting. We could not change rooms, as all others were booked and did not know where else to go as it was dark already.Do not stay there!!!

Lalibela:
I know this night be updated now but the entry fee is now 50 US$/ person. It’s well worth it but we were surprised be the amount.

We were told the tourist information is closed. We did not check if that was true though.

Axum: Africa Hotel: very nice place. But check the room before you pay. They wanted to give us a mould one at first.

Addis Abeba: Taitu Hotel: The main building is very nice. But the bathrooms are terrible. No toilet seats, mould, cockroaches. Still the price was ok for 300birr/night.

Simien Mountains Lodge:
We got a wet season discount and payed 90US$ for a double room. They even brought us a massive bucket full of hot water as the fog was too thick for the solar power panels to work. Very nice.

 

Adam writes:

We were in Ethiopia in Jan/Feb 2013. We have done the northern circuit which is like most people i would say.

Just want to let people know the cost of some things (especially visiting churches)

On Lake Tana (Bahir Dar) All the monasteries and churches around the lake are all charging 100 Birr ($5.50 per person or 3.40 pounds) This total cost for two of us seeing all the places the boat took us to was 1000 Birr. I cannot say that they all were worth the cost.

We enjoyed both Bahir Dar and Gonder both very nice cities.

We did a five day trek in the Simien Mountains with just the two of us and paid $400 each. (this gave us a guide, scout (man with a gun) Cook and the mules and helpers so our tent and everything was sorted. I am sure you can get this a little cheaper but we thought it was worth the money.

The internal flights are cheap around $50 each per flight, and saves spending a day on a bus. We did a bus from Addis to Bahir Dar (very nice trip tho)

We also did Gonder to Axum the day after our flight was cancelled due to Fog and was told this could last three days. We did the trip door to door in 13 hours (great road but not sure i would rush to do it again lol.

In Axum we hired a car to do a two day trip to see rock churches in Tigrai. We booked the 4 X 4 though Africa hotel and the cost was $100 a day. If there are 4 people this works out very cheap.
We told our driver which churches we wanted to go to but this did’t seem to fit into his plans.
All the rock churches are charging 150 Birr per person ($7.50 or 5 pounds) on top of this you still have to pay a person for opening up the church and the shoe person. After six churches the cost was in excess of $100.

We then went to Lalibela,

This place is taking every cent of the tourist dollar/pound/euro.
They have put up the price to see the churches to $50 for the pass. This has only just been put up in mid Jan from 350 Birr. For the two of us it cost 1827 Birr. I did ask what the money would be used for and why the huge increase in price. I was informed that they only worked for the priests and there were 900 of them including the monks that needed paying. They are in the future going to build a medical centre (not sure when or for who). We were later informed that the Lalibela priests have not long bought their 3rd hotel (the 7 Olives) so it seems the money has been spent in different ways.

The churches are worth the $50 but i do think given the poverty in the country the church seems to be taking so much of the tourist dollar and not much goes downwards.

Bernd writes:

I just came back from a 3-week-trip to Northern Ethiopia. Here are some short update:

* From Addis to Bahir Dar: there are also minibuses leaving from a place close to Mercato during the morning. Think this is important as most people travel that direction. Couldn’t find that info in the guidebook.

* Bahir Dar: watch out when booking a tour to the monastries or Nile falls at the Ghion Hotel. Several people got cheated (paying 200, 250, etc) instead of 150. Ended in long discussions…

* Blue Nile falls: No guide necessary (instead you wrote you might need one on page 201). Tour operators tell you that you should go only to one of the places, but only the round trip makes sense.

* The ticket office in Axum is currently used by some people who are not official at all. They just took it over as the real guy working there stopped. So they recommend you guides without license (not necessarily bad ones, we got one good and one bad one).

*Axum / rock churches: We booked a tour with an unofficial but very good guide. We would like to recommend him: Name: Getachen. Phone: 0920018953

* Axum/Mekele: The tour agency at the Africa hotel in Aksum now has a small office in Mekele on the backside of the Atse Yohannis Hotel. If you are in Aksum, talk only to the boss. Other guides from the hotel charge an additional fee when booking through them. We booked our Danakil-tour with them: very good! 500 US$ for 4 days to/from Mekele.

* Lalibela: the Roha Bar and Restaurant (the one beside the Lalibela Hotel) can NOT be recommended. When we got in, it was empty and really dirty, but we were too lazy to walk on. For this we got punished: we both got a really bad diarrhea (likely amoeba).

* the Lalibela Hotel (in Lalibela) has new renovated rooms at 35 US$. They are good, but 35 $ is overpriced.

* Harar: for getting there by plane, I think you should include the info, that you need a transport into Dire Dawa town first and from there to Harar. There are no direct buses from the airport to Harar (easy to find out, but before planning the flight this info would have helped).

* security: in general safe, especially in the Danakil, as there are now lots of soldiers to protect the tourists. But, last week an Austrian guy was killed on a blue nile tour (remote area).

Besides: really nice guidebook (better than the Lonely Planet)!

 

Consolar Hotel, Axum

Posted: December 2, 2012 in Axum

Simon writes:

The Consolar Hotel in Axum seems to have gone downhill since your 6th edition was researched. Far from having broadband internet in every room, there is no internet available anywhere in the hotel. There was also no sign of the minibar you mention in the guide. There was a telephone in our room, but for display purposes only – there was nothing for it to plug into. The hotel is half-built, with the fifth floor currently under noisy and dusty construction, whilst the lower floors are already falling apart. The food is truly, really inedible and service is woefully slow at best – at worst dishonest (they twice tried to charge me wildly over the odds for bar bills). Our toilet seeped sewage (I don’t even know how this is possible on the fourth floor), there was no hot water for the duration of our stay and no water at all for a large portion of it, the beds are insanely soft (perhaps broken) to the point where one disappears into the mattress and many of the room doors do not lock. I visited the Yeha Hotel whilst in Aksum and hugely regretted not staying there – it is a carbon copy of its ex-sister hotels in Bahar Dar and Lalibela and as such is totally adequate.

Here our comments / special mention regarding our 20-day trip North and East Ethiopia. 5th August – 25th August
Addis Ababa
Hotels:
Regency Hotel in Piazza. Upmarket. Double room w/breakfast 100$. Very good location, clean and comfortable. Good breakfast. Wifi low speed. Airport shuttle complimentary.
Haimi Apartment Hotel in Bole, beside MK restaurant and Enya restaurant. Upmarket. Double room suite w/breakfast and dinner 120$. Excellent location. Amazing suites with great views of the city. Breakfast is very good. Continental dinner not that good. Wifi high speed. Very appropriate for business trips and tourist.
Restaurants:
Piazza:
Addis Ababa Restaurant. Very good traditional food in a nice traditional house.
Castelli’s. This Italian restaurant is now closed under restoration.
Bole:
Habesha Restaurant. Excellent traditional food and good live traditional music. We found this one more sophisticated and higher level than Addis Ababa Restaurant.
Enya Restaurant. Excellent greek food.
Bahir Dar
Hotels
Bed & Breakfast The Annex. Tel. 0918727504. Nice patio full of birds and flowers. Clean rooms and shared bathroom. Very good breakfast. Double room 40$
Restaurants
Special mention to the restaurant of Kuriftu Resort. More expensive than other restaurants in Bahir Dar, but the food is excellent and the location / atmosphere / environment is romantic and beautiful.
Lake monasteries
Half day trip by boat including the lake monasteries Kibran Gebriel, Bet Maryam, Uda Kidane Mihret and Debre Maryam, 150 birr pp with shared boat from Ghion Hotel. Otherwise 600 birr per boat.
Day trip by boat to Gorgora including visit to Daga Istafanos, Narga Selassie (Dek Island) and Debre Sina Maryam (Gorgora), 3000 birr per boat.
Gorgora
If you arrive to Gorgora by boat after 5pm, it is very possible you will not find any kind of transportation to Gonder. So you will have to overnight in Gorgora Hotel. This is what happened to us. “1st class rooms” in front of the lake were fully booked by Chinese families. I think there were only two of these. We had to sleep in a 2nd class room for around 200 birr for a double room. Dirty, bedbugs, toilet was a place to avoid if possible. Simply nasty. Food in the hotel restaurant was eatable.
Gondar
Hotels
Goha hotel. A good choice both hotel and restaurant are good. They offered 50% discount for low season. Around 40$ including breakfast.
Gondar to Axum by road
We went to the Tourist Information Office and decided to contact a 4×4 driver called Mamoush Tel. 0918773409, following “Anton’s trip report” of April 2012. He was really friendly and helpful all the time. We hired him for 5-6 days to do the Gondar – Axum (2 nights) – Debre Damo / Adigrat – Gheralta (2 nights) – Axum flight to Lalibela. Price per day ranges between 150$ to 200$ including driver’s food and accommodation, depending on your negotiation skills and length of the journey. You will probably have to pay an extra day for him to go back to Gondar. Even though it is not cheap, i really recommend this 4×4 trip as a way to optimize your time when visiting churches in the Gheralta / Adigrat. Also the scenery is magnificent from Gondar to Axum.
Axum
Hotels
Yeha hotel. 70$ double room without breakfast. We found it expensive. The hotel is comfortable and the restaurant is nothing special but good.
Restaurants
AB restaurant (beside Ethiopian Airlines). Nice patio and environment, good traditional food in the birr 40 – 60 range.
Other
We were lucky during our stay in Axum and had the chance to see a morning ceremony (4am-7am) including a night walk of thousands of people with candles following monks and the ark of the covenant (replica).
Adigrat
A superb recommendation in Adigrat, don’t miss the restaurant of the Geza Gerelase Hotel. The meat is excellent there and inexpensive, both lamb and beef/ox. They use this kind of local wassabe for the meat… Coffee ceremony and so on, in a very traditional tukul restaurant. By the way, kurt was awesome…
Gheralta Lodge / Rock-hewn churches
What to say about this place…? It is just perfect. One of the highlights of the trip. I wish we had had more days to spend in the Gheralta Lodge / rock hewn monasteries. We will come back for sure 3 or 4 more days the day we visit the Danakil..
The rock-hewn churches are something else. We visited Abuna Yemata Guh, Abreha Ye Atsbeha and Wukro Chirkos in the same day. Abuna Yemata Gut is espectacular. An unforgettable experience. For me it was far better than Debre Damo. Abreha Ye Atsbeha is also excellent in paintings.
A good guide near the Gheralta lodge, but cheaper: Haile Selassie (it is not a joke!) 0914041123. We payed him 250 birr.
Lalibela
Hotels
We had a reservation at Mountain View Hotel. As soon as we got there, we decided this hotel was not for us. Extremely overrated, 75$ for an awful / retro / unpleasant double room. The entire hotel looks like if they had left things half done, as if they had finished the investment before completion and not payed attention to details. The only good thing was the restaurant. Its Jamaican chef cooks really well. So we had lunch and moved to Tukul Village. Tukul Village is simply excellent. Try to get room 23, is the best one in the hotel. Price 57$ double room including breakfast.
Restaurants
Seven Olives. Excellent traditional food and pasta, 150 birr per person.
Other
Outside Lalibela we visited Genata Maryam. 700 birr for the car. For us was not really worth it, specially if you have visited some churches in the Tigrai.
Harar
Hotels
We spent 4 nights in Harar getting some rest and enjoying the end of Ramadam. I do recommend Rowda Guest House Tel. 0256662211, 350 birr double room w/ breakfast. Breakfast isnt very good but… at least you are in the Old Harar, in a nice traditional Harari house. One of the rooms has bathroom, as for the other is shared. Price is always the same.
I don’t recommend Zubeyda Guest House. They are family with Rowda but the service is awful. To give an example, we had our reservation in Rowda, but by mistake we went the first night to Zubeyda. They didnt say this wasnt Rowda. The following day, when we found out this was another guesthouse, we decided to move because of course we had a reservation in Rowda. They tried to charge us 700 birr instead 350 birr for one night! they said we had used two beds instead of one!!! There was a sad discusion, we paid 350 and go.
Recommended guide for Harar: Sisse 0913450433. We enjoyed his company and attention for 4 days. We had a chat experience with him one of the days. That’s something I really recommend. Another day, he prepared in his home an excellent meal: young camel goulash and also beef tips. Excellent. We drunk Goudar red wine…
In Harar you can buy excellent coffee in the Harar Coffee Company. Very cheap and excellent taste.
A good place to drink one of these awesome juices with three colours: green, orange and pink (avocado, papaya or mango and guava) is Mermaid Cafe, 1st Street. Coffee is also excellent. A better breakfast than in Rowda Guesthouse.
Babile and the Valley of Marvels
If you have time in Harar, Babile is worth a visit. The camel market is very interesting and colourful. As for the Valley of Marvels, i recommend a short trek over there. We were lucky and found about 100 vultures eating dead camels!!
Ethiopia is top of the list for us, a destination you cannot miss.
Cheers
Jehu & Laia from Sitges, Barcelona

First of all thanks a lot for the great guidebook, it was not only helpful but also a good pastime during long bus rides and a source of many laughs…

Here some updates and personal experience from my 4 weeks Ethiopia trip in May.

General:
- Maestro/MasterCard can be used with any Dashen ATM, the limit per withdrawal was 4000 birr
- Attention: the forex bureau/bank at Addis Bole airport is closed during the day (open only mornings and evenings)! If you happen to have surplus birr, the Ethiopian Airlines lounge will change for an inferior rate (23 birr/$ instead of 17!)

- cashed Travelers Cheques at Commercial Bank of Ethiopia (100$), same exchange rate as for cash, service charge less than 1$)

- exchanged dollars at Dashen bank, same exchange rate for all denominations (even for 1$ bills)!
Addis Ababa:
- Baro Hotel: rundown and quite rough, but clean enough; 135b for a tiny s/c single; shoestring in the great Piazza area
- Mr. Martin’s Cozy Place: most expensive accommodation during my trip, but a very friendly place and good location with many restaurants, shopping facilities etc. around; 220b for a spacious clean single with shared bathroom
- Old Piazza Restaurant (Mahatma Gandhi Rd. below De Gaulle Square, maybe identical with the mentioned “The Pizzeria”) has good pizza, pasta and some local food
- for getting to the Meskel Square, ask for a minibus to “stadium”; they didn’t know “Meskel” or mixed it up with “Mexico” Square

Bahir Dar

- Tana Pension was very rundown, many mosquitoes (the window didn’t close) and erratic water supply; 80b for a s/c single
- Wudie Pension (50m from Tana Pension at the crossroads) has nice rooms; 120b for a single, but the common bathrooms could be cleaner…; try the delicious Fatira for breakfast
- just across from Wudie is a very good restaurant (check out the balcony on the 1st floor)

Gonder:
- Habesha Cafe for good juices and coffee
- booked a 3 days Simien trek with Mickey (simientrektours.com) for 320$; for sure there are cheaper offers around, however I was happy with the tour, we were only 2 and had the best cook around, the guide and the scout just for us, and didn’t meet a single other tourist; very good organization

Axum:
- the bus ride from Gonder to Shire was long and bumpy (almost 12h), but wonderful landscapes and views; tough but worthwhile
- Africa Hotel is a very nice place; 170b s/c single with hot shower and DSTV

Wukro:
- the Tekra Tesfai cluster of rock-hewn churches is easy to visit as a day trip from Wukro, even caught a minibus to Mekele the same afternoon; don’t pay the “keeper” at the foot of the cliff just for taking photos from below the cliff

Mekele:
- Atse Yohannis Hotel is a great place; try to get a room on the 4th floor, mine was the corner room and had great views over the city from the balcony; 200b for a spacious s/c single
- very good local food just across the corner from Atse Yohannis (Bellevue Restaurant?)
- the Green Valley Cafe serves good pizza, burger and of course coffee with some nice pastry

Roger